Where To Eat When You’re Visiting Milan - THE INFATUATION
Coming to Milan is exciting and intimidating. Let us take some of the pressure off by suggesting where to eat.
If you really know Italy, then you know Milan is not to be missed—even if it is often overshadowed by the “big three.” The international food scene has exploded in recent years, with a surge of neo-trattorias, dimly-lit wine bars with standout snacks, and an ever-expanding Chinatown food scene that merits its own guide (we’re working on it). Make sure to prioritize two things when you’re in town: the traditional saffron-laden risotto alla Milanese, and Negronis in the birthplace of Campari.
THE SPOTS
La Latteria
Via S. Marco 24 Milan, Lombardy 20121
€€€€ | Italian
La Latteria - Photographed by Elizabeth Jones
Milan’s hottest dining spot isn’t new—it’s the beloved La Latteria, which recently reopened after its closure last year left a void in the city. After almost six decades, the restaurant’s cherished owners retired, but cashmere heir Vittoria Loro Piana acquired the spot and brought back the original owners, Maria and Arturo Maggi, for six months to guide the new team. With just nine tables, La Latteria’s iconic dishes remain: spaghetti with lemon and fresh green chili (parmesan requests discouraged!) and soft eggs baked with butter and topped with bottarga. Seasonal vegetable sides, like anchovy-dressed puntarelle and zucchini in mustard olive oil, complete the menu. Order one of everything and pass it around. Latteria is closed on weekends and does not accept reservations.
28 Posti
Via Corsico 1 Milan, Lombardy 20144
€€€€ | Italian | Navigli
28 Posti - Photographed by Jose Limbert
A stroll along the Naviglio Grande canal in Milan is a must, and 28 Posti is our favorite restaurant in the area. It’s a welcomed escape in the evening when the young bar crowd starts to multiply—step inside to be reminded that you’re in the European city of design. Earthtones, wood, pendant lamps, and micro-perforated sheet metal provide a Milanese casual glamor that matches the clientele. Pass over the a la carte menu for the surprise tastings, which are available in a range of three to ten plates. The owners founded one of Milan’s natural wine festivals, and the list will satisfy the most passionate skin-contact fans. For vegetarians, they’re happy to do a vegetable tasting with advanced notice, which is spectacular in both technique and imagination.
Cavoli a Merenda
Corso Magenta 66 Milan, Lombardy 20123
€€€€ | Italian | Magenta
Cavoli A Merenda Terrace - Photographed by Laura Baiardini
There are a handful of historic palaces that used to belong to Italian royalty just a few steps away from the church that houses The Last Supper. One of them—an 18th-century palazzo with an unassuming exterior—is Cavoli a Merenda, a weekday-only Italian restaurant that manages to be both grand and comfortable. Book a table in advance to eat at one of the beautiful tables surrounded by ivy and fragrant blooms on the glass-walled terrace. It’s a seasonal menu, with dishes like fassona beef tartare with bok choy in the spring, and delicate squid gnocchetti with potato cream and black truffle in the fall. Two things you’ll always find, though, are a wild fish of the day and artisan dried pastas.
Ronin 浪人
Via Vittorio Alfieri 17 Milan, Lombardy 20154
€€€€ | Japanese | Chinatown
Ronin - photographed by Laura Baiardini
Ronin is a buzzy Pan-Asian restaurant-bar-karaoke spot on the edge of Chinatown. Dreamy neon-soaked aesthetics of Wong Kar-wai meet the stylized worlds of Quentin Tarantino, with cozy private karaoke rooms on the upper levels, and an open kitchen restaurant where DJs spin from aperitivo hour until late night. It’s perfect for a pre-karaoke bite or a late-night snack—skip the fish sando and go for the izakaya with Italian spins, like okonomiyaki with pancetta and spicy escarole, yuzu goma, and furikake.
Bistro Aimo E Nadia
Via Matteo Bandello 14 Milan, Lombardy 20123
€€€€ | Italian | Magenta
Bistro Aimo e Nadia table - Photographed by Laura Baiardini
Bistro Aimo e Nadia is a see-and-be-seen spot for designers and hip locals, young and old, living on the west side. Come for lunch or dinner to try things like their near-flawless risotto and homemade tortelli packed with herby buffalo ricotta and topped with slow-cooked tomato sauce and basil. The cotoletta is a Milan staple, and Aimo e Nadio makes it their own with on-bone rib chops, double-breaded and fried in olive oil, and served with mashed potatoes and a simple housemade mayonnaise. If you’re hoping to eat here during Milan Design Week, reserve months in advance.
N’Ombra De Vin
Via San Marco 2 Milan, Lombardy 20121
€€€€ | Italian | Brera
N’Ombra De Vin - Photographed by Laura Baiardini
This 16th-century church refectory turned subterranean bar-restaurant in Brera is your spot for aperitivo. Tables and a few bar seats fill up quickly in the moody cavernous space, and at sunset, the chic after-work crowd sits on the street, glasses in hand. Downstairs, groups of friends order salumi boards and lots of bottles, their voices traveling across the tall vaulted ceiling and bouncing off thousands of for-sale reds, whites, and bubbles that line the walls. Skip the food and go straight for the mixed salumi board and cheese plate.
Risoelatte
Via Camperio 6 Milan, Lombardy 20123
€€€€ | Italian | Duomo
Riso Al Salto at Risoelatte - Photographed by Laura Baiardini
Before risotto became a ubiquitous dish on the menus of neo-trattorias across Northern Italy, the simpler, more rustic version was known in Milanese dialect as “ris e lat”—rice and milk. You can try several risottos here, including Milanese riso al salto: a large, soft-yet-crispy pancake-sized disc of saffron carnaroli fried on both sides, delicately, in butter. The decor is a little kitschy, but it’s perfectly located in the city center in between Piazza Duomo and Castello Sforzesco, making it a popular and convenient spot for locals and tourists.
Trattoria Del Ciumbia
Via Fiori Chiari 32 Milan, Lombardy 20121
€€€€ | Italian | Brera
Trattoria del Ciumbia - Photographed by Laura Baiardini
Via Fiori Chiari is one of the few streets in Milan that feels like a tourist trap. But Trattoria Del Ciumbia is a new, refreshing departure. It just might be the only place in the city where you’ll find braised frog legs, foie gras lasagna, and fried trippa on the same menu (though there are fresh pastas, too, for the less adventurous). While the dishes may be old-world, the theatrical energy is extremely fresh—modern chromatic interiors conjure the House of Gucci with deep reds, tans, and various dark shades of green. If you can, leave room for a slice of panettone for dessert.
Marchesi 1824
Via Monte Napoleone 9 Milan, Lombardy 20121
€€€€ | Italian | Duomo
Marchesi 1824 - Photographed by Laura Baiardini
Marchesi 1824 is a legendary bakery with three beautiful locations: the original is near Castello Sforzesco, the second in the Montenapoleone fashion district, and the most recent one opened inside the Galleria. If you’re looking for a quick pause over a macchiato at the bar, head to the original—at the Galleria, there’s table service for all-day breakfasts or aperitivi. The panettone is a must (Milan is, after all, the birthplace of panettone). The classic version is available year-round by the slice, and there’s always a seasonal flavor like candied chestnut in the fall. Don’t be surprised if you see an overwhelming amount of Prada here—the brand purchased Marchesi almost ten years ago, and had a strong hand in their classy expansion.
Il Mannarino
Via Carlo Tenca, 12 Milan, Lombardy 20124
€€€€ | Italian | Central Station
Il Mannarino
There are several Il Mannarino butcher-restaurant locations in Milan, and they’re quickly expanding to other Italian cities. If you’re staying in a house with a proper kitchen, this is where you should pick up provisions for a night in. Choose fresh meat from the butcher counter, or cheat a little with pre-seasoned meatballs and freshly made ragu. If you’re dining in, the menu’s best enjoyed with a group. The explosive bombettes from Puglia may be even better than the roadside ones we’ve had in Southern Italy, and the classic Florentine steaks and Abruzzo-style lamb skewers will transport you to multiple Italian regions at once.
A Santa Lucia
Via San Pietro all'Orto 3 Milan, Lombardy 20121
€€€€ | Italian | Duomo
A Santa Lucia - Photographed by Laura Baiardini
A Santa Lucia has been a celebrity hangout since it opened in the 1920s—you’ll spot Joséphine Baker, Marcello Mastroianni, and Frank Sinatra immortalized in several hundred framed photos covering the walls. It’s one of the few old-school spots still in business near Duomo, and great for a bite before or after a long opera at La Scala. Pass on the pizza and go for the Roman-style dishes like crispy veal saltimbocca and stracciatella alla romana. And keep your eyes open for Italian actors, as locals still count for over half of the clientele.
Erba Brusca
Alzaia Naviglio Pavese 286 Via Boffalora Milan, Lombardy 20142
€€€€ | Italian | Chiesa Rossa
Erba Brusca
In Northern Italy, an extensive network of canals flows from the lakes, under the streets, and into hundreds of rice fields, producing the supreme carnaroli Italian risotto rice that you’ll find at restaurants like Erba Brusca. This spot is south of the Naviglio Pavese canal, but well worth the 15-minute taxi ride from the Porta Genova metro stop. On most nights, you can walk in uninvited, pull up a chair at the communal table, and feel like you've escaped the city for a countryside trattoria. Go in hungry for the tasting menu to experience the versatility of the kitchen—you’ll get things like eggplant risotto with sour cream, basil, dukka, and pickled raisins. At lunchtime, the outdoor garden is a highly-coveted reservation for in-the-know Milanese.
Bar Luce
Largo Isarco 2 — lodi Milan, Lombardy 20135
€€€€ | Bakery/Cafe
Bar Luce - Photographed by Aslin Castaneda
Housed in a former gin distillery, Bar Luce, at the entrance to the grounds of the Prada Foundation, is just as much of a destination as the art museum itself. It’s designed by Wes Anderson, and the candy-pastel café delivers as much on the food and drinks as it does on style. Play Sophia Loren’s "Zoo Be Zoo Be Zoo" on the jukebox and feel confident that any photo you take here will look good on Instagram. While many visitors head to Bar Luce for its cocktails, coffee, or pastries (including a viral pink marzipan vanilla sponge cake), the under-the-radar standout is the huge selection of pressed panini.
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone
Via Santo Spirito 10 Milan, Lombardy 20121
€€€€ | Italian | Duomo
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone - Photographed by Laura Baiardini
This extravagant courtyard was once home to the Bagatti Valsecchi nobles (you can tour their house museum upstairs to see how the other half lived). And while it’s possible to burn a hole in your designer bag with a feast of lobster and champagne, Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone’s risotto, pastas, and salads are all worth a smaller splurge. Order the paccheri with fresh tuna, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and mint, or the buttery yellow risotto alla Milanese—they don’t skimp on the saffron here. In the morning, you can start your day with a coffee, brioche, and a dash of aristocracy at Il Salumaio’s charming cafe in the same building. It’s one of the few places in the area where you can sit down for breakfast before the shops open.
Bar Basso
Via Plinio 39 Milan, Lombardy 20129
€€€€ | Bar
Bar Basso - Photographed by Aslin Castaneda
Every Italian has their bar, and Bar Basso is the quintessential Milanese spot for aperitivo al banco any time of day. In the morning, locals shuffle in and out for coffee, and as the day passes, a younger mix of visitors joins the scene, gathering in groups at the tables outside (the crowd multiplies during Fashion and Design weeks). Bar Basso is famous as the birthplace of the Negroni Sbagliato—a “mistaken” twist on the classic Negroni, swapping out gin for prosecco to create a more boozy version of a Campari spritz. Be sure to order it in their signature, retro oversized glassware, a nod to the bar’s legacy.
La Ravioleria Sarpi
Via Paolo Sarpi 27 Milan, Lombardy 20154
€€€€ | Chinese | Chinatown
Ravioleria Sarpi - Photographed by Giuseppe Biancofiore
Milan’s Chinatown is the second largest in Europe, and it’s where some of the most exciting restaurant openings happen every year. Ravioleria Sarpi quickly became popular for its fresh dumplings, but we actually think you should go straight for the spicy jianbing, or crêpe cinese. The delicate thin layer of flour batter is reinforced with an egg, then painted with two kinds of sauce and filled with puffy Chinese fried dough, thin slices of green onions, and fresh herbs (with the option to add meat). They recently added seating inside the butcher next door, but we like mingling outside with the natural wine-drinking locals who spill out of the historic enoteca across the street.
LùBar
Via Palestro 16 Milan, Lombardy 20121
€€€€ | Italian | Porta Venezia
LuBar - Photographed by Aslin Castaneda
LuBar, overlooking the elegant courtyard of an 18th-century villa that now houses the Modern Art Gallery of Milan, is more than a typical museum café. The gorgeous space serves food all day and fills up with elegant diners winding down at night. Pillowy bite-sized panelle chickpea fritters, mini arancini, and a raw bar cater to the aperitivo crowd, with cocktails and mocktails that go down easy. LuBar is also a great spot for a savory breakfast, which isn’t something you’ll find at many other places in Milan.
Terroir Milano
Via Macedonio Melloni 33 Milan, Lombardy 20129
€€€€ | Italian | Porta Venezia
Terroir Exteriors
Milan is often recognized as the birthplace of the concept store, where the idea of blending retail, art, and lifestyle seamlessly converge. Simply put, Terroir is a gourmet grocery with specialty coffee and natural wine by the glass. In a city full of traditional bottegas with Italian foodstuffs, Terroir stands out by offering an exceptional blend of international teas, chocolate, pastas, and potato chips (and all the belissimo packaging). An older, deeply local clientele mixes with young regulars and in-the-know visitors on the search for specialty coffee, craft beer, and artisanal kimchi.
Botoi
Botoi
Piazzale Lavater 2 Milan, Lombardy 20129
€€€€ | Italian | Porta Venezia
Relaxed wine bars with small shared plates are having a moment in Milan (and, well, everywhere else), but the kitchen at Botoi in Porta Venezia stands out. Call ahead to secure a spot at one of the four tables or two stools to watch the one-man show: the young Italian owner is there every night to chat with guests in between cooking, serving, busing, and pouring wine. The small menu of seasonal seafood and produce is mainly traditional Northern Italian plates with a twist, with standouts like chard lasagna with smoked provola and polenta with baccalà and monk’s beard. The long-fermented focaccia, with onions, black olives, and anchovies is otherworldy.
